NORTH YORKSHIRE MOORS NATIONAL PARK

 


The Moors Boasts Some Of The Most Picturesque Villages In The UK & For Ease Of Visiting Can Be Split Into 3 Zones East, Central & West 3, 2 & 1.

Making Scarborough in the East Zone 3 Your Starting Point, the 1st Village along the A170 Is

 

WEST AYTON

 

A typical moorland village which is noted for the two bridges that carry traffic over the river Derwent as it whispers through the valley, the main attraction being the old stone built bridge, in and around Ayton you can still find the remains of the 14th century Ayton castle.

 

 

River Derwent

 

EBBERSTON

 

Ebberston is well known for the Rosedale ironstone mines & treatment plants which can still be seen here, however the village is better known for having the smallest stately home in England “Ebberston Hall” the hall was built by Colin Campbell in 1718.

Above the village in the hills of the national park is an ironstone burial ground.

 

 

Ebberston Hall

 

THORNTON-LE-DALE

 

Just 2 miles before Pickering on the A170, this bustling village with it’s very deceptively large shops, a country park with lake which is a haven for wild Birds.

A stream runs through the village & the village plays host to the most photographed thatched cottage in history, there’s a chocolate factory & shop for the chocoholics.

A vintage car showroom, Forest walks, plus Music on the Hill (a diary of events that’s free to the public held each Sunday from 6th July to 31st August)

 

 

                                        Thatched Cottage                                      the Beck

 

 

                                                                        The Forge                                                               Post Office

 

PICKERING


 

                                                         Pickering Village Green                                    Pickering High Street

 

Pickering has long been known as Gateway to the Rugged & Spectacular North Yorkshire Moors.

Pickering takes pride from its age claiming to date back to 270BC & like many of its neighbouring towns & villages is best explored on foot.

 

The Village Is a Bustling Centre of Attractions with Shop’s, Flee Markets, Eateries, Hotel’s & Public Houses.

On Mondays the whole centre springs to life with the arrival of the weekly market.

Not forgetting the world famous Pickering Antiques Centre with some 45 dealers, 3,500 sq feet of showroom, free parking & disabled access this is a must visit for all your antiques & collectables at reasonable prices

 

 

Pickering Antiques Centre

 

Ryedale swimming pool is located next to the towns football pitch & the Traction Engine & Steam Rally is held here at the beginning of August, well worth a visit. There is an impressive display of machinery & the fair comes to town.

 

Pickering is also host to the start of the North Yorkshire Moors Steam Railway.

The line was originally planed by George Stephenson in 1832 to connect Whitby docks to the main inland trade routes.

It started running in 1836 by horse drawn carriages as the Whitby to Pickering Railway not being overhauled until 1845 by the York & North Midland Railway who reengineered the line to allow use of steam locomotives.

The line changed names & owners over the years until 1973 when it was taken over by the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, This is the second longest steam railway in the country covering some 18 miles & including stations at Levisham, Newton Dale Halt, Goathland, Grosmont & Whitby with plans for extensions to Malton, taking in further stops at Rillington, Marishes Rd & Kirby stations, both steam & diesel trains are run for public business & pleasure.

The Nymr often put on themed weekends throughout the April to December season lists of which can be found here along with timetables & costs.

www.nymr.co.uk

 

  

 

Pickering Station

 

Pickering castle is a superb example of Motte-&-Bailey structure constructed by the Normans, this fine building is now a ruin as during the civil war lead, wood & iron were all removed to strengthen Scarborough castle, it is however still considered one of the best examples in Yorkshire & the ruins rise dramatically above Pickering beck & the Trout Farm.

 

The castle is located ¼ mile from the main street.

 

 

Pickering Castle

 

It is believed the parish church of St Peter & St Paul was also built by the Normans & paintings dating back to 1450 AD have been uncovered

 

 

St Peter & Pauls Church

 

Beck Isle Museum This fascinating museum is housed in a fine example of a Regency residence, situated adjacent to Pickering beck a stream that flows through the town under a four arched road bridge of which one arch is reputedly or Medieval origin, it is widely believed that William Marshall planed the 1st English Agricultural Institute here in the early 1800’s.

The museum contains a large amount of bygones relating to the everyday rural life style over the past 200 years in Ryedale & it also boasts a large collection of the world famous Sydney Smith photographs.

 

 

Beck Isle Museum

www.beckislemuseum.co.uk

 

The ‘Pickering Trout Farm’ provides hours of fun for all generations whether it’s catching their first fish or just practice to the more experienced fisherman.

There is a cafeteria on site, tuition is available & both fly & float fishing are accepted

 

 

Pickering Trout Farm

 

Bed & Breakfasts, Guest Houses & Hotels are all located in historic Georgian market town, or if self catering is your choice, there are many cosy holiday cottages to choose from.

 

Pickering is the ideal location to start your journey, whether your chosen method of transport is the famous north Yorkshire moors steam railway www.nymr.co.uk

Driving or cycling both on & off road.

Maybe you are just an enthusiastic Walker.

The idyllic North York Moors National Park offers it all & is a pleasure to be upon it offers in excess of 1,000 miles of public footpaths running through the wild moors, sprawling forests, imposing ridges & pastoral dales.

 

LEVISHAM

 

Travelling from Pickering along the A169 towards Whitby your first stop may be Levisham this remote village is also the 1st station on the nymr line from Pickering to Grosmont.

The steam train enthusiast can rent carriage accommodation here starting from as little as £350 per week & including free use of the nymr, the carriages are maintained to very high standards.

 

 

Coach Camping Holiday Accommodation

 

North is the spectacular valley of Levisham Beck which is approached on foot via a waterfall & old mill.

Once arriving at Tumuli-Rich visitors stare in wonder at the natural amphitheatre known as the Hole of Horcum.

 

 

Levisham Beck

 

LOCKTON

 

Lockton sited just 2 miles from Levisham is a delightful village cast in a beautiful location & has one of the few remaining village duck ponds in the national park.

Along with Levisham Lockton is one of the 1st places where early iron smelting has been discovered

 

 

Lockton Village

 

GOATHLAND

 

Goathland would be your next stop & is famously known as Aidensfield the home of TV’s Heartbeat, visitors come here everyday to see if they can catch a glimpse of one of the stars. The pub, garage/funeral directors and village shop are instantaneously recognisable.

 

 

 

                                                                            Village Store                                          Cripps garage

 

 

                                                             Goathland Steam Railway                           Aidensfield Arms

 

Goathland is a stop on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway www.nymr.co.uk.

The steam & diesel trains begin at Pickering and end at Grosmont; though during the summer months special steam trains run between Grosmont & Whitby.

The steam railway station is your third stop on the line & has been used in ‘Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone’.

Here you can also rent carriage accommodation for as little as £350 per week

 

 

Coach Camping Holiday Accommodation

 

Being a central point in the North York Moors, there are stunning walks in any direction you turn. Waterfalls are here in abundance, the most well known being the Mallyan Spout, Water Ark & Thomason Foss.

 

 

                                                    Mallyan Spout                                Water Ark                               Thomason Foss

 

Country houses, farms, and cottages all providing accommodation, most offer bed and breakfast while some offer half & full board, self-catering holiday cottages are also available.

 

GROSSMONT

 

The terminus for the North Yorkshire Moors Railway is a hive of activity during the season.

The home of the build sheds which is well worth a look, here you can see former steam trains being restored to there natural glory the most famous possibly being the Sir Nigel Gresley.

The steam railway station is you’re forth stop on the line & links up with British rail mainline from Whitby to Middlesbrough.

Here you can also rent carriage accommodation for as little as £350 per week

 

 

 

                                                             Grosmont Rd Crossing                                        Grosmont Signal Box

 

 

Station House Self Catering Holiday Accommodation

 

A small but bustling village with great walks, superb views & a small amount of village shops, pubs & accommodations.

Grosmont also has a castle which remarkably well preserved & was founded by Earl William Fitz Osbern during his invasion of South Wales in 1070.

 

 

Grosmont Castle

 

THE ESK VALLEY in the NORTH YORKSHIRE MOORS NATIONAL PARK

 

 

The Esk Valley derives its names from the Esklets that start to rise in Westerdale & become the river Esk that spills into the North Sea, this valley lies amongst the beautiful yet rugged landscape of the North York Moors National Park.

Mining was once a major industry of the North East of England and there are many deserted mines throughout the Esk Valley.

 

 

 

 

There are many historic and beautiful towns and villages which make up the Esk Valley.

 

 WESTERDALE

 

The most westerly point of the Esk valley, the river rises here in several small becks known as Esklets & combine to form the river Esk.

Westerdale itself is a pretty village surrounded by moorland.

 

 

CASTLETON

 

Nestling against Castleton Rigg this pretty village offers a rest bite for the weary traveller.

The village has a small but vibrant community which offers shops, bank, hotels, pubs, tea rooms & even a local garage.

A pretty hamlet Castleton is worth a stop as it relies mainly on tourism today.

 

 

 

 

 

DANBY

 

Danby nestles in a hollow & its focus is the village green were the sheep make lawn mowers redundant, there is a pretty stroll down by the river were you can cross using the Duck Bridge stepping stones (your risk.)

The village offers a village pub, bakery & café, village store & bed & breakfast accommodations.

 

 

 

                                                           Duck Bridge Stepping Stones                   Danby Village Green

HOULSYKE

 

Houlsyke is a small hamlet on the road between Danby & Lealholm blink & you may miss it.

 

LEALHOLM

 

The River Esk forces it's way through a steep gorge called 'Crunkley Gill' and emerges in the village of Lealholm, with stone cottages, a village green, and stepping stones over the river it is not surprising that this is a spot that is popular with photographers and artists alike.

 

 

                                                  Lealholm                                  Lealholm Bridge                           Lealholm Stepping Stones

 

GLAISDALE

 

Glaisdale village is an ironstone mining village of the 19th Century.

You can view attractive terraces of slate-roofed cottages.

Wide verges and greens that cling to the hillside on the western side of the dale just south of the River Esk

Amenities include a post office, pub & a church.

 

 

 

                                                                         Glaisdale Cottages                             Glaisdale Bridge

 

EGTON

 

Egton & Egton Bridge are picturesque villages deep in the Esk valley famed for the Postgate inn which was aptly named after the martyr the blessed Nicholas Postgate who was hung drawn & quartered in York in 1679 at the age of 82.

Under the railway bridge is the superb St Hedda’s church often known as the cathedral of the moors.

 

 

                                                                           Egton Village                                             Postgate Inn    

 

 

                                                                      St Hedda’s Church                                   Esk at Egton Bridge

 

SLEIGHTS

 

This picturesque village inhabits hillsides on either side of the river Esk & takes it fame from infamous Flint Jack who was born here one of Yorkshire’s great characters.

Flint jack was famous for creating fake antiques that were so good they fooled even the experts.

The Salmon Leap hotel offers good food a friendly welcome & super selection of beers it is sited on the river Esk and fishing for both Salmon & Trout is available.

Sleights also has a super garden centre that nestles on the banks of the Esk with a lovely tea room, you can hire rowing boats 7 a miniature railway, children’s soft play area & ice cream farm are all within walking distance.

Country lanes branch of from Sleights to other small intriguing hamlets such as Ugglebarnby, Littlebeck & Eskerdaleside.

 

 

Garden Centre                               Salmon Leap Hotel

 

 

                                                                     Sleights Station                                                 River Esk

 

WHITBY

 

The River Esk has gouged its path to the North Sea, which itself has eroded the land to form impressive cliffs.

 Together these natural features have created the estuary of the River Esk.

 

 

Here lies the town of Whitby with its ancient port, stunning views & varied history.

Whitby lies at the mouth of the River Esk forming a bond between the North York Moors and the North Sea.

There is an abundance of activities to see & do in Whitby; the town is cleverly split by a Swing Bridge between the old town & the new town.

 

 

The East Bank with it's maze of alleyways, narrow idyllic cobbled streets and ancient buildings is overlooked by the cliff top St Hilda's Abbey and the Anglo Saxon church of St Mary, both of which can be accessed by walking up the famous 199 steps, fortunately for those less energetic (like myself) you can take a bus or drive as well

 

 

The West Bank is dominated by the fishing quay which in 'times gone by' would be lined with fishing vessels three and sometimes four abreast. Another feature of interest includes the Whitby Lifeboat Museum.

 


At the seaward end of the quay is the Kyber Pass which provides road and foot access to West Cliff where you will find a memorial to the 18th century explorer Captain James Cook.

Whalebone arch which stands as a reminder that Whitby was once the main whaling port for the North of England.

 

 

Visitors will be rewarded for their climb with panoramic views over the town of Whitby and the coast towards Sandsend.

After the 19th Century thanks to Queen Victoria Whitby fast became a popular tourist destination.

Queen Victoria had a passion for Jet Jewellery and this soon became desired by many as a semi precious gem. Jet is unique to Whitby, it can be found only in the local cliffs & hillsides.

 

 

Whitby has an air of mystery about it, there are many tales of heroes, gobbets and hobbits which the locals will be happy tell you about.

The novel ‘Dracula’ was set in Whitby and its author Bram Stoker gained much inspiration from the historic town.

The Esk Valley rail line is considered one of the buried treasures of the British Railways, and runs from the historic railway station in Whitby all the way through Grosmont & onto Middlesbrough.

 Along the way there are stunning views and picturesque landscapes not to be missed.

 

 

 

 

 

During the summer months the North Yorkshire Moors Railway (NYMR) operate steam trains several days a week between Whitby, Grossmont, Goathland (Aidensfield) and Pickering.

 

www.events.co.uk

 

Please click the above link for information on Whitby Events in 2009.

 

Tourism is now one of the main industries in the Esk Valley and there is much to offer visitors including; museums, attractions, activities, music, modern entertainment and an abundance of restaurants, hotels, cafes, B&B’s, caravan sites and self catering accommodation.

You can fish for salmon, brown trout and sea trout at various places along the River Esk, and Whitby is also an excellent venue for the sea fisherman.

 

NORTH YORKSHIRE MOORS EAST CONTINUED

 

ROBIN HOODS BAY

 

About 5 miles south of Whitby of the A171 is the coastal village of Robin Hood’s Bay.

Its history began long before any association with the mythical figure from Sherwood Forest.

There is written record, dating back from 1536, of a "fishing townlet of 20 boats", by which time there were about 50 houses.

For many years smuggling was an organised activity in the bay.

Any visitor to the village today can well imagine the difficulties the excise men and dragoons from Whitby would have had in tracking down smugglers in the warren of tiny streets.

In fact there is a local legend regarding the tunnels and passage that once linked many of the houses in the village: it has been said that a bail of silk could pass from the bottom of the village to the top without seeing daylight.
The village also depended on more legitimate activities: Fishing remained the main livelihood and in the late 1820’s there were 130 fishermen working here.

The shipping activities of Robin Hood’s Bay declined in the late 19th century, but the completion of a massive sea wall in 1975 ensures the preservation of this particularly atmospheric and idiosyncratic coastal village.

Today the village is a tourist trap & is often awarded the international best village in bloom certificate, it offers shops, pubs, café’s, antiques shops & all you would expect from a village made of quirky ally’s & passages.

There is also a safe sandy beach.

 

 

 

 

BOGLE HOLE

 

Boggle Hole is a small gap in the cliffs where a small stream, Mill Beck, runs down to meet the sea and 'Boggle' is the local name for a hobgoblin.

Boggle Hole was once a notorious smugglers’ haunt. Nowadays all ages will love beachcombing and searching for fossils and rock pool life on its shore. Stunning views.

 

 

STAINTONDALE & RAVENSCAR

Staintondale and Ravenscar have a long and unusual history. Dinosaurs left their footprints along the coast. Neolithic, Bronze Age and Iron Age man erected barrows and standing stones in profusion on what is now moorland.

The Romans were here, and built a Signal Station as part of their East Coast defenses on the site of Raven Hall Hotel. From soon after the Conquest until the Reformation the land at the heart of the village was granted by Royal Charter to the Knights Hospitallers.

The area was a centre both of Quakerism and of Methodism in their early years, and indeed did not possess an Anglican church as such until the beginning of the 20th century.

Ravenscar boasted a large and intermittently successful alum works from the early 17th until the late 19th centuries, supporting workers, managers and owners all resident in the area. Raven Hall, now an excellent hotel, developed into a fine residence over the years, one of its 19th century owners erecting Ravenscar Church as well as various other buildings. However, the attempt to turn Ravenscar into a coastal resort failed, despite the building of the Scarborough and Whitby Railway, and with the collapse of the alum industry towards the end of the 19th century, the failure of the Ravenscar Estate Company and the coming of the internal combustion engine, the railway became merely a seasonal attraction. It closed eventually in 1965, its legacy being a very pleasant walk and cycle-path.

Today the area is delightfully unspoilt. It boasts around 300 inhabitants, many of whom are still involved with farming. Not only is it a tranquil holiday location; it has the added advantage of being within easy reach of Scarborough, Whitby and York, as well as a host of coastal and moorland beauty-spots.

 

SCALBY

 

Scalby is a lovely, traditional English village nestling on the boundary of the North York Moors National Park and situated just minutes north of the coastal town of Scarborough. The village is a place of considerable antiquity, being mentioned in William the Conqueror’s Doomsday Book as ‘Scallebi’. In the centre of the village is the ancient church of St. Laurence, which is said to date back to 1150.

Scalby has retained much of its old world charm and possesses many features of the traditional English village. There are two friendly pubs serving local beers, a cozy restaurant, a few small shops, a quiet park with tennis courts and lawn bowls, and behind the church some large playing fields where you can often see teams enjoying the English game of cricket!

The village stretches to the coast, providing for beautiful cliff-top walking along tranquil, unspoilt coastline. The beaches of Scalby have become famous for their fossils and more remarkably the discovery of clearly visible dinosaur footprints dating from the Jurassic era. The area has deservedly earned the title of ‘Dinosaur Coast!’

HACKNESS

Lying at the point where Lowdale Beck merges into the River Derwent, this superbly-placed village has an 11th century church built on top of a nunnery established by St Hilda in the 7th century and an 18th century Hall, the seat of Lord Derwent, which is not open to the public. The area has remarkable variety and the delightful Forge Valley is replete with watercourses, forests, picturesque dales and undisturbed wildlife.

 

Stop at the start point the junction of the A171 & A170 at Scarborough; this completes the east section of the North Yorkshire Moors.

 

          RYDALE in the NORTH YORKSHIRE MOORS

 

Continuing into the central zone along the A170 from Pickering the first hamlet to turn of to is

 

CROPTON

 

Outdoor activity enthusiasts from bikers to ramblers find this part of the world irresistible and Cropton Forest is no exception with its vast expanse of mainly coniferous woodland on the edge of untamed moorland. On Wheeldale Moor is the Roman road of Wade’s Causeway while in the small village of Cropton is a fine yew-lined approach to the local church.

 

 

Rose Cottage Cropton

 

LASTINGHAM

Following the small roads within the moors you come to Lastingham this is one of the most fascinating villages in the North York Moors and holds a unique place in the hearts of Christians who have been coming here for centuries. The reason is that the Lindisfarne monks built a monastery here in 655AD. Although it was destroyed Abbot Stephen of Whitby built a crypt to replace it in the 11th century and had the saint’s bones interred within it. Remarkably, the crypt – or small church - has withstood the test of time and looks much as it did when it was first constructed. Inside are pieces of ancient crosses.

 

Lastingham Village

 

ROSEDALE ABBEY

 

Rosedale sits in one of the prettiest valleys in the North York Moors but during the 19th century it was a veritable hive of industry, its population multiplying after the discovery of high-grade iron ore sparked a mini-Klondike. Mines were pushed deep in to the bowels of the valley’s hillsides and the North Eastern Railway Company seized the opportunity to build a new line. Kilns can still be seen but stones from the walls of 12th century Rosedale Abbey were pilfered to build houses for the miners, so little remains of the original nunnery.

 

 

Rosedale

 

HUTTON-LE-HOLE

 

Coming back down from Rosedale abbey through the moors roads you come across Hutton Le Hole, Something of a showpiece village, Hutton-le-Hole provides the rural setting for the Ryedale Folk Museum, a remarkable exhibition of rescued and reconstructed period buildings including a photographer’s studio, a cruck-framed house and a row of shops. Surrounded by moors, this picturesque location is blessed with pretty stone cottages, glistening streams and a series of intriguing bridges. The oldest building here is Quaker Cottage, which dates from 1695 and is associated with John Richardson, a missionary to America who befriended William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania.

 

 

                                                               Cruck Framed Cottage                                      Hutton-Le-Hole

 

APPLETON LE MOORS

 

Following the road back towards the A171 brings you to Appleton Le Moors; this medieval village is unusual in having one of the few surviving commons. The street verges form part of it and sheep roam freely here. Christ Church is distinctively French-Gothic and was described by Sir John Betjeman as “a little gem among moorland churches”. Appleton le Moors, Hutton le Hole, Spaunton, Lastingham and Rosedale are all part of the Manor of Spaunton, which has existed since the Norman Conquest.

                                                                      Appleton Church                                         Appleton Hall

KIRKBYMOORSIDE

Following the road back onto the A171 towards Helmsley the next village you come across is Kirkbymoorside, this quiet moorland town comes alive on market days and from Vivers Hill there are splendid views over the Vale of Pickering.
The town’s Market Hall dates from 1700 while the Black Swan inn is a half-timbered building dating from 1634. The town has fine countryside around it and a short drive will take visitors to nearby Ryedale Folk Museum at Hutton-le-Hole, a fascinating living museum.

 

                                                                        Village Square                                                 Kings Head

 

HELMSLEY

 

The Cleveland Way Walk starts in this busy but attractive market town, which is the administrative base for the North York Moors National Park. It lies below picturesque moorland on the River Rye and boasts the ruin of a 12th century castle once regarded as impregnable. The castle was bought in 1689 by Sir Charles Duncombe of nearby Duncombe Park, but fell into disrepair when he decided to live in a 200-room mansion in the grounds.

 

The castle was probably built by Walter L’Espec who also founded nearby Rievaulx Abbey - the first Cistercian house to be built in the north of England. Founded in 1131 it is one of the most magnificent ruins in the country, with fine views and an unusual terrace.

 

 

                                                                            Helmsley Castle                           Feeding the Ducks

 

 

                                                                           Duncombe Park                              Rivelaux Abbey

 

SPROXTON

 

The one street peaceful village of Sproxton with its charming limestone built houses between more modern dwellings, all with well kept gardens. The village dates from at least the 14th century when the manor and lands and a hermitage of Sproxton were mentioned in old charters.

St. Chad's Church, Sproxton, has a somewhat chequered history. This small unusual church is a restored Elizabethan building that once stood at West Newton Grange, 1½ miles away. Much of the fabric of the building moved to this Sproxton site in 1879. The architect of the rebuilding was C. Gilbert Scott with his student Temple Moore, who tried to retain the 16th century character of the church.

 

 

                                                                     Sproxton Hamlet                                           Sproxton Church

 

OSWALDKIRK

 

Carrying on along the A170 the next village is Oswaldkirk, the parish of Oswaldkirk is in the district of Ryedale in the county of North Yorkshire. Named after the church dedicated to the Anglo-Saxon King Oswald, the parish is made up of two townships, Oswaldkirk and Newton Grange. The township of Oswaldkirk is a  village situated on the south facing bank of the Hambleton Hills overlooking the Coxwold-Gilling Gap and beyond to the Howardian Hills.  Newton Grange is situated on higher land to the north east and consists of four farmsteads, Newton Grange, West Newton Grange, Golden Square Farm and Bank Top Farm.

Earthworks provide the earliest evidence of settlements in the area. Early Bronze Age round barrows and a Bronze Age ring ditch are visible in the north of the parish just south of Dropping Gill Plantation. Later medieval field systems can be seen to the south of Oswaldkirk Hall along with the medieval parish boundary-bank on the Oswaldkirk-Gilling border.

The first recorded reference to Oswaldkirk is in the Doomsday Book in which it is referred to as  Oswaldecherca  or Oswaldecherce. The main land tenants are recorded as the Count of Mortain and Berenger de Tosny. Robert, Count of Mortain, was the largest land holder in the country after the king, with holdings in nineteen counties. Berenger de Tosny was the second son of Robert de Tosny (founder of Belvoir Castle) who had holdings in Lincolnshire, Nottinghamshire and Oxfordshire as well as  in Yorkshire. (Hinde, 1985). Before this date there is no documentary evidence. Some think that a monastery was begun on a site opposite the church in the 9th century and never finished, but there is no documentary evidence for this either. Some have also suggested that the site was used by the monks from Byland before Byland Abbey was completed. The Abbey records are however quite complete and make no mention of Oswaldkirk. Local historians believe that the ruins described by George Frank (1888) in his book 'Ryedale and North Yorkshire Antiquities' are more likely to be from an early manor house than from any form of monastic building. Rushton (1986) reports that 'fragments of a 15th century building have been found there, with Pickering family coats-of-arms from an early hall'. There are still three shields of the Pickering family, lords of the manor from 1316 to 1661, visible on the retaining wall beside the road opposite the church.

The  Malt Shovel.

 

The exact date of the Hall is not known but Michael Hanson (1986) of Country Life Magazine writes that his colleague at Country Life, Giles Worsley, puts it at around 1683.

 

Oswaldkirk Hall.

 

The 1600s were troubled times, with the Civil War and the associated disruptions of church life. Much of the ancient stained glass in the region was destroyed at the time, probably by Parliamentarian troops involved in the siege of Helmsley castle. There is no record of any direct involvement at Oswaldkirk, but Rector John Denton had become a Presbyterian minister in 1658 at a time when the Anglican Prayer book was banned. He was a friend of the future Archbishop Tillotson who is said to have preached his first sermon at Oswaldkirk in Denton's time.  When the 'New' 1662 prayer book was introduced, Denton refused to conform and was ejected. He went to live at East Newton with his in-laws, the Thornton’s. Whilst there he got to know the new 20 year old Rector of Stonegrave, Thomas Comber, who was lodging at East Newton. Comber married a Thornton daughter and as a scholar and theologian eventually convinced 'Uncle Denton' to join the Episcopal Anglican church, and he became Rector of Stonegrave on May 27th, 1700. Thomas Comber went on to become Dean of Durham.

In 1768 the York-Oswaldkirk Turnpike Trust was created under an act for amending and widening the road from the city of York to the top of Oswaldkirk Bank. A turnpike had already been created in 1757 between Sproxton and Golden Square which was extended a year later to Oswaldkirk Bank Top. But it was not until 1803 that the Oswaldkirk Turnpike Trust finally set about bringing the Bank up to the standard of the rest. Whilst many turnpikes merely took over and improved existing roads the turnpike road from Helmsley to Oswaldkirk to Gilling was a largely new construction. The road was re-routed from Helmsley so it passed to the west of Sproxton and from Golden Square Farm it kept on the high ground above Newton Grange and West Newton Farm. The Oswaldkirk to Gilling section was a completely new link as earlier routes had been from Gilling to Ampleforth and not directly to Oswaldkirk. (Perry, 1977)

The Manor of Oswaldkirk passed from William Moore to his daughter and then to the Banner family. Upon the marriage of Mary Banner to Richard Oakley in April 1811 the title deeds show that the manor has more than doubled in size since the earlier description of 1566. The manor is described as consisting of 20 messuages, 15 cottages, 35 gardens, 35 orchards and around 1900 acres of land. The land is described as: 800 acres of land, 500 acres of meadows, 500 acres of pasture, 100 acres of wood along with unspecified acreage of common. (Sumner Marriner, undated).

The Rectory was extended in a more gracious style in 1836 by Rector Thomas Comber, for the princely sum of  £1245 10s.

 

The Rectory.

 

Until the parish boundaries were tidied up in 1856, a substantial part of Oswaldkirk parish was in detached sections, mainly in what is now Ampleforth parish. These included the fields between Beacon Farm and Studfold Farm and 'The Royalty' near Tom Smith's Cross. Other sections lay between Mill Farm, Ampleforth and Carr Lane and also part of the Ampleforth Abbey lands.

The last lord of the manor to own the whole village was Colonel Musgrave Benson who bought it in 1907 from the Trustees of the Page Henderson family.

Newton Grange is also mentioned in the Doomsday Book and at this time was part of the Parish of Sproxton rather than Oswaldkirk. Around 1200 AD Robert, Lord of Sproxton, gave around 1000 acres at Newton Grange to Rievaulx Abbey who held the land until the dissolution. Medieval field systems are still visible to the north of Newton Grange.

It is not clear at what time Newton Grange Township became part of the parish of Oswaldkirk. Roger Dodsworth the famous antiquarian who compiled the 'Monastic on Anglicanum' tells us in his preface that he was 'born on April 24th, 1585 - at Newton Grange in the parish of Saint Oswald's in Ryedale'. (Yorkshire Archaeological Society Helmsley and Area Group, 1963) In 1639 Sir Henry Cholmley purchased the whole of Newton Grange Township and set about an ambitious building programme. In addition to a manor house, a chapel was built in a nearby field. In 1706 the estate passed into the hands of Sir Charles Duncombe who set about restoring the house to become his main residence, however his successor in 1713 promptly abandoned the plan and Duncombe Park was built instead. The Duncombes continued to own Newton Grange, restoring the chapel in 1765. (Yorkshire Archaeological Society: Helmsley and Area Group, 1963)

 

 

Painting of chapel at Newton Grange in the 1800s.

 

The chapel stopped being used for public worship around 1820 and by 1859 was little more than a barn. In 1879 it was decided to move the chapel. It was then moved stone by stone to its present position beside the Helmsley road in Sproxton. (Goodall and Laver, 1949)

This concludes the central zone 2.

 

Continuing on the A170 from Oswaldkirk you enter the West Zone 1 & are almost immediately signed to

 

AMPLEFORTH

 

This is the location of the magnificent Ampleforth Abbey, which was built in the early 19th century and still has a community of more than 90 monks. A private Catholic boys’ public school was also established here and is known as the ‘Catholic Eton’. Part of an 11th century manor house at nearby Gilling East is open to the public.

 

 

Ampleforth Abbey

 

KILBURN

 

Kilburn is best known as the home of the late Robert Thompson, one of Britain’s most important woodworkers. The son of a local joiner, his carvings, all containing his individual trademark - a mouse - can be seen in churches across Britain, including Westminster Abbey. His workshop is at the centre of the village and visitors can see the skill of wood carving in action.
Behind the village is the figure of a 300ft white horse dug into the hillside of Sutton Bank. It was the work of a local schoolmaster and his pupils in 1857. Sutton Bank is the base of the Yorkshire Gliding Club.

 

 

Kilburn White Horse

 

HAWNBY

 

Cutting back across the A170 you pass by both Thirlby & Boltby before coming across your next stop at Hawnby this a great place for walking and from Hawnby you can head over moorland to the picturesque Hambleton Hills. An old drovers’ road leads to the summit of Black Hambleton. At 1,257ft this offers marvellous views over the Vale of York and towards the Pennines. The village itself lies on the River Rye and has a fine Norman church. John Wesley preached here in 1757 and it gained a reputation for Methodism. Nearby Arden Hall is the seat of the Earls of Mexborough. Mary Queen of Scots stayed here briefly en route to her execution.

 

 

Hawnby Hill behind the Village

 

OSMOTHERLEY

 

Taking its name from the Saxon prince Osmund, Osmotherley lies just a few miles from the Cleveland Hills of the A172 and the picturesque Osmotherley Moor. It stands at the start of the challenging 40-mile Lyke Wake Walk to Ravenscar. John Wesley preached here by the town’s cross. Nearby is the ruin of Mount Grace Priory, probably the best-preserved Carthusian house in England. Founded by Thomas Holland, Duke of Surrey, at the end of the 14th century, it was home to ‘silent’ monks who even avoided contact with each other.

 

 

Osmotherley Mount Grace Priory

 

CHOP GATE

 

Heading Back East Across the moors & surrounded by the glorious Hambleton Hills, Chop Gate is a picturesque moorland village that offers the traveller spectacular views as well as unrivalled opportunities for rambling, cycling and sightseeing.

 

 

 

Chop Gate & Cold Moor

 

SWAINBY

 

Swainby is located on the edge of the North Yorkshire Moors National Park within striking distance of the coast. A quaintly traditional village, it is surrounded by softly-spoken heather moorland becalmed within a maze of dry-stone walls. The Cleveland Way and a national cycle route pass right through the village.

 

 

Swainby

 

INGLEBY GREENHOW

 

A picturesque moorland village located a few miles from Guisborough, Ingleby Greenhow dates from at least the 11th century, although only the local parish church carries evidence of those early days. Above the village in the magnificent Cleveland Hills is rugged Battersby Moor where there is a round cairn.

 

 

Ingleby Greenhow Church

 

GREAT AYTON

 

This is undoubtedly one of the prettiest villages in the region and it was where the great explorer Captain James Cook was taught at Postgate School. The school is now a museum dedicated to the great man and his remarkable voyages. A 50ft monument to Cook stands proudly on nearby Easby Moor. Two miles away, at Newton, is a footpath that takes the visitor to the distinctive 1,000ft landmark of Roseberry Topping.

 

 

River Leven at Great Ayton

 

Although this concludes the fascinating experience of the north Yorkshire moors there are more villages to take in just outside the moors boundary the better ones include the large town of Thirsk

 

THIRSK

 

Thirsk is situated on the junction of the A170 & the A19, this larger of the Moors market town is known for its James Herriot fame, it boast one of the larger shopping centres of the moors towns there is a Museum Housed in the 18th century birthplace of cricketer Thomas Lord, Thirsk Museum features the life of the ancient market town made famous by James Herriot. There is the magnificent perpendicular 15th century church. Fine examples of medieval glass and woodwork. James and Helen Herriot (Alf and Joan Wight) married here in November 1941. A visit is never complete without a Visit to the 1940s home of author and veterinary surgeon, James Herrriot. An award winning, all weather museum and attraction. Lots of fun and completely accessible.

 

 

                                                Herriot House Museum             Thirk Museum                15th Century Church